Yarn Count
Yarn count is used to measure the thickness of yarn.
It is usually expressed in English count (Ne) or metric count (Nm). The English count refers to the multiple of 840 yards of the length of a pound of yarn at a given moisture regain. For example, 40-count yarn means that the length of a pound of yarn is 40 × 840 yards. The metric count refers to the number of meters of the length of a gram of yarn at a given moisture regain. The larger the yarn count, the finer the yarn, and the fabric woven is usually thinner, softer, and has a more delicate hand feel.
Functions of Yarn Count:
- Determine the texture and style of the fabric: Fabrics woven with finer yarn counts are usually thinner, softer, have a delicate hand feel, and are suitable for making high-end clothing, such as silk shirts; fabrics woven with coarser yarn counts are thicker and rougher, for example, used for making rough work clothes.
- Affect the breathability and warmth retention of the fabric: Fabrics with fine yarn counts have better breathability, and fabrics with coarse yarn counts have relatively stronger warmth retention.
- Affect the price of the fabric: The production process of high-yarn-count yarn is more complex and the cost is higher, so the fabric made from it is often more expensive.
Needle Number
Needle number is an important concept in the knitting field. In the yarn industry, needle number usually refers to the number of needles per inch on the needle cylinder or needle bed of a knitting machine. The higher the needle number, the tighter and more delicate the fabric woven, and the clearer the texture. For example, a 18-needle knitted fabric is relatively tight, while a 12-needle one is relatively loose. The choice of needle number depends on the style, use and quality requirements of the desired fabric.
Functions of Needle Number:
- Determine the density and texture of the fabric: High needle number can produce tight and delicate fabrics with clear texture and smooth surface, suitable for making close-fitting clothing; fabrics woven with low needle number are relatively loose and have coarser texture, often used for making coats, etc.
- Affect the elasticity and stretchability of the fabric: When the needle number is high, the elasticity of the fabric may be limited to some extent; when the needle number is low, the stretchability of the fabric is relatively better.
- Affect the appearance effect of the fabric: For example, different needle numbers will make the fabric show different luster and three-dimensional effect.
Twist
Twist refers to the number of twists per unit length of the yarn. The size of the twist directly affects the strength, elasticity, hand feel and luster of the yarn. Higher twist can make the yarn stronger, but may reduce softness and luster; lower twist makes the yarn softer and more lustrous, but the strength may be relatively lower. For example, in the production of some ropes that require high strength, yarn with high twist is used; while in the production of soft underwear fabrics, yarn with low twist is usually selected to ensure comfort.
The twist has a significant impact on the performance of yarn and fabric, and its functions are:
- Affect the strength of the yarn: Appropriate twist can increase the strength of the yarn, making it more durable and less likely to break.
- Determine the hand feel and softness of the yarn: Yarn with high twist has a harder hand feel, and yarn with low twist is softer.
- Affect the luster of the fabric: When the twist is higher, the luster of the yarn is relatively weaker; when the twist is lower, the luster is stronger.
- Affect the pilling performance of the fabric: Appropriate twist can reduce the pilling phenomenon of the fabric during use.
